2006 Linne Calodo Nemesis

The 2006 Nemesis (which I rated 93+ in issue #177) continues to perform beautifully. A blend of 82% Syrah, 14% Mourvedre, and the rest Grenache, the wine exhibits a dark ruby/purple color as well as a sweet blackberry, cassis, charcoal, lavender, graphite, and floral-scented bouquet, terrific fruit, a full-bodied, French-like personality, and impressive purity as well as length. Consume it over the next decade. These are very individualistic and impeccably well-made wines that deserve considerable attention. Moreover, prices are very fair given the wines’ high quality. Matt Trevisan has a new state-of-the-art winery and barrel-aging facility as well as access to a new 18-acre estate vineyard. Like some of his nearby neighbors (particularly Justin Smith of Saxum), this is one of the most exciting wineries to visit on Vineyard Drive, essentially the tenderloin section of the limestone hillside vineyards of West Paso Robles. Production at Linne Calodo was off by 30-40 percent in 2007, and another 10% in 2008, but given the global economic crisis most wine producers are probably happy to have high quality, but smaller quantities given the financial climate throughout the world. Tel. (805) 227-0797; Fax (805) 227-4868

(82% syrah, 14% mourvedre and 4% grenache) Bright purple. Intensely perfumed bouquet of blueberry, cassis, black pepper and spicecake. Sappy dark berry flavors are sharply etched and gain sweetness with air, picking up fine-grained tannins. Brighter red fruits appear on the finish, which is impressively precise and energetic. Here again, I'd have guessed this to have a higher percentage of grenache.