2011 Robert Biale Zinfandel Old Crane Ranch

(15.8% alcohol): Medium red. Black cherry, menthol, licorice and pungent black pepper on the nose; I'm not wild for the oak here. Soft and supple, with modest lift and clarity to the medicinal black cherry flavor. Finishes with rather dusty tannins. Where is the typical zinfandel fruit and verve? As with most of these 2011 releases, I wanted more lift and perfume here.