2005 Baker Lane Syrah Estate Vineyard

Bright, medium ruby. Wild, highly aromatic nose melds black raspberry, violet face powder, lavender, pepper, leather and bacon fat; smells like a cross between Cote-Rotie and Cornas. Then juicy and intense, with tightly wound flavors of crushed dark fruits, leather, meat and minerals. I found myself wishing for a bit more flesh and expansiveness (the mid-palate doesn't quite deliver what the nose promises), but I love the wine's flavors. And this could only be syrah. The label says this is just 13.9% alcohol: is that legal on the North Coast? A fascinating wine that will merit a higher score if it unclenches with bottle aging.