2006 TOR Rock Syrah Hudson Vineyard

Even better is the prodigious 2006 Tor Rock Syrah Hudson Vineyard. Inky/ruby/purple to the rim, it exhibits a bouquet redolent of spring flowers (acacia, or is it violet?), sweet blackberry and licorice-infused fruit, and hints of espresso as well as white chocolate. It is a full-bodied, powerful Syrah displaying a flawless integration of acidity, alcohol, wood, and tannin. Enjoy this sensational effort now and over the next decade. Good things happen to good people, and Tor Kenward is not only one of the leaders in the wine business (he’s a longtime executive at Beringer), but he is also a true wine connoisseur, humanitarian, and a burgeoning high quality wine producer. His concentration on Burgundian-styled, single vineyard Chardonnays, or single clones, some impressive Syrahs under the Tor Rock label, and some fabulous Cabernet Sauvignon under the Tor label, has gotten him off to a rocket ship-like launch. Production remains under 3,000 cases (and it is not likely to increase), but this winery is well-worth following as the wines are hand-crafted and bursting with personality. Tor Kenward was a Rhone wine enthusiast long before those wines became fashionable. In an attempt to emulate some of the top-notch French Rhones, he has sought out cool vineyard sites in the Bennett Valley and southern Napa. Tor Kenward and his winemaker, Jeff Ames, are equally attuned to Cabernet Sauvignon. They produce three cuvees, including a brilliant effort from Yountville’s Mast Vineyard, a more mineral-dominated, tannic wine from the Cimarossa Vineyard on Howell Mountain, and an offering from one of the classic sites for Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville’s Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard. Tel. (707) 963-3100; Fax (707) 963-3114