2010 Carlisle Zinfandel Bedrock Vineyard

Freshly cut flowers, spices and mint all jump from the glass in the 2010 Zinfandel Bedrock Vineyard. Nuanced and detailed, the 2010 Bedrock comes across as fresh, vibrant and beautifully delineated from start to finish. This is very bright and floral, especially for the year. Mike Officer told me the fruit at Bedrock had matured to the point it could withstand the sweltering heat from the spikes that arrived in late August. The 2010 is a field blend of approximately 86% Zinfandel, 11% Mourvedre and 3% Petite Sirah/Alicante Bouschet. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2020. Proprietor Mike Officer arrived with a bevy of wines for our tasting, all of which I was thrilled to sample. Readers who don’t think terroir exists in California should check out the Carlisle Zinfandels and Syrahs, many of which emerge from old-vine, heritage sites that nearly disappeared until Officer and some of his peers rescued them from the brink of oblivion. In particular, the 2011 Zinfandels are fabulous. Officer describes 2011 as a very late harvest. The Syrahs were all picked after the rains, while the thinner-skinned Zinfandels naturally came in quite a bit earlier. Officer told me he performed a severe selection of fruit that took with it a full 50% of the production. For his efforts, Officer has been rewarded with a set of gorgeous wines, although I imagine his faithful clientele won’t be too thrilled with the lower production levels of these wines, given their already minuscule production. Unfortunately, 2011 Compagni Portis and Gruner Veltliner were to be bottled right after this tasting, so I will have to wait until another opportunity to sample those wines. Carlisle is resolute in keeping his wines affordable, a commendable approach I wish were more common throughout California. Tel. (707) 566-7700

(includes 11% mourvedre and 3% petite sirah and alicante bouschet): Opaque purple. Blueberry, blackberry, violet, cracked pepper and bitter chocolate on the vibrant nose. Bright and spicy on entry, then supple and suave in the middle palate, offering flavors of candied dark berries, violet and bitter chocolate. Finishes very long and smooth, with gentle tannins and intense florality.

The 2010 Zinfandel Bedrock Vineyard comes across as a bit burly. There is good intensity in the fruit, but the tannins are a bit rough around the edges and the wine overall lacks the polish that is typical here. It will be interesting to see how the wine develops after bottling. The 2010 is 86% Zinfandel, 11% Mourvèdre and 3% assorted red varieties, all from vines planted in 1888. The fruit was fully destemmed, and the wine was aged in French oak barrels, 22% new.