2012 Wind Gap Trousseau Gris Fanuchi-Wood Road Vineyard

(fermented in concrete eggs and raised in a combination of stainless steel and concrete; 12.7% alcohol): Green-tinged yellow. Spicy lemon and quince aromas are complicated by hints of white flowers and chalky minerals. Fresh citrus and orchard fruit flavors are braced by zesty minerality and show very good clarity. Emphatically fruity but poised and incisive, with very good finishing cut and thrust.

Freshly cut white flowers, spices, green pears and lemons are some of the notes to be found in the 2012 Trousseau Gris Fannucchi-Wood Road Vineyard. This vibrant, aromatic concrete-aged white is best enjoyed over the next year or two. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2014. This is another exciting, captivating set of wines from Wind Gap and Pax Mahle. Readers who have not yet discovered Wind Gap owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most gorgeous, nuanced wines being made in California today. Mahle continues to experiment with concrete and larger casks, both of which seem ideally suited to a minimalist approach that seeks to draw out the maximum expression of each of these sites. The Wind Gap wines achieve that elusive balance of depth without excess heaviness. Once again, I was deeply impressed with the range I tasted and can't recommend these wines highly enough. Tel. (707) 887-9100