2011 Wind Gap Chardonnay James Berry Vineyard

Green-hued yellow. Intense pit and orchard fruits on the nose, with exotic iodine and truffle nuances adding complexity. Offers flavors of pear, nectarine and Meyer lemon, along with mineral and floral nuances that build with air. Distinctly rich but lively as well, with very good clarity and brightening acidity on the mineral-driven finish. (JR)

Wind Gap's 2011 Chardonnay James Berry Vineyard, from arguably the most famous vineyard in Paso Robles, is another compelling wine. A big, broad-shouldered frame supports layers of expressive yellow stone fruits. Floral and mineral notes appear over time, but the 2011 is most easily understood as a white wine with the structure of a red. The intensity, depth and power are all compelling. Here, too, a portion of the wine was fermented in concrete (80%), although Mahle gave the James Berry 12 months in oak, about six months less than the rest of his 2010s. Anticipated maturity: 2013-2018. This is another exciting, captivating set of wines from Wind Gap and Pax Mahle. Readers who have not yet discovered Wind Gap owe it to themselves to do so. These are some of the most gorgeous, nuanced wines being made in California today. Mahle continues to experiment with concrete and larger casks, both of which seem ideally suited to a minimalist approach that seeks to draw out the maximum expression of each of these sites. The Wind Gap wines achieve that elusive balance of depth without excess heaviness. Once again, I was deeply impressed with the range I tasted and can't recommend these wines highly enough. Tel. (707) 887-9100