2007 Charles Smith Wines Syrah Old Bones

The 2007 Old Bones is composed of 50% Heart and 50% Skull aged in 500-liter new barrels. Savory, rich, layered, and already complex, this exceptionally lengthy, mouth-filling, hedonistic Syrah offers just a micrometer of extra flavor interest compared to either Heart or Skull individually. The new oak and a broader palette of flavors to choose among are the most likely contributors. Over the past two years a cult following has sprung up around the persona of Charles Smith, imbuing him with larger than life attributes. By and large, he has acquired this status the old-fashioned way, he has earned it. When I tell enquiring minds that I’ll be visiting Charles later in the day, they know exactly where I’m going. Once past the persona, however, Charles Smith continues to make some of Washington’s finest wines. Native yeast fermentation, foot crushing, spontaneous malolactic fermentations, gentle basket pressing, no fining or filtration are routinely practiced in the cellar. Even more important, Charles Smith knows where to find the great grapes. In a region where blending is still the rule of thumb, he is the ultimate terroirist. Almost all of his wines are sourced from single vineyards. There are three groupings, the K Vintners selections, The Cayuse selections, and the Charles Smith selections. Tel. (509) 526-5230; www.kvintners.com