2016 Marchand-Tawse Mazis-Chambertin Grand Cru

(the yield of 30 hectoliters per hectare was down slightly from normal; harvested on October 4 and vinified with 50% whole clusters; almost half of these vines were planted in 1929): Bright, dark red. Wild, multidimensional aromas of dark raspberry, truffle, black olive, game and espresso; a real essence of Gevrey. Wonderfully sweet but firm on the palate, conveying outstanding definition to its intense flavors of black cherry, spices, minerals and game. Combines compelling depth of flavor with a powerful tannic backbone and great length. I was especially struck by how much cleaner (i.e., brett-free) this wine was than many older vintages of the bottling--and with no loss of aromatic range or personality.

The 2016 Mazi-Chambertin Grand Cru was showing more reduction than the Mazoyères and so the nose was difficult to read. It came at 13.6% natural alcohol. The palate is structured and masculine, the whole cluster rendering this a little more rough-hewn and rustic (35% whole bunch). The domaine describes this as a “sleeping giant,” and it will require several years in bottle to really come together. Sinewy and introspective, this is for those with patience and a cellar.