2010 Château de Saint Cosme Gigondas Cuvée Valbelle

Composed of 90% Grenache and 10% Syrah, the 2010 Gigondas Valbelle saw some small new oak barrels during its upbringing. There are about 700 cases of this cuvee compared to the 3,400 cases of the classic Gigondas. One of the vintage’s most profound wines, the 2010 Valbelle exhibits an opaque purple color along with copious notes of black raspberries, creme de cassis, incense, forest floor, spring flowers and subtle underbrush and earthiness. There may even be a hint of black truffles in this complex, full-bodied, massively endowed Gigondas. Neither heavy nor ponderous, it is a brilliant example that should drink nicely for 15 years. Louis Barruol has been at the top of his game since the late 1990s, and over the last few vintages, he has been making some of the finest wines in the southern Rhone as well as France. The glories here are Barruol’s single vineyard/special cuvees of Gigondas, but consumers should not overlook the terrific value offered by his Cotes du Rhones. The wines are sold under two monikers, Chateau Saint-Cosme and simply Saint-Cosme (his negociant line-up). Barroul produces a small quantity of Chateauneuf du Pape that is usually about 50% Grenache, 30% Mourvedre, 10% Cinsault and 10% Syrah. Importer: Country Vintners, Ashland, VA; tel. (804) 752-3670

Even better (but not by much), the 2010 Château de Saint-Cosme Gigondas Valbelle is a co-fermented blend of 90% Grenache (80-year-old vines) and 10% Syrah, fermented whole cluster, that is aged for 12 months in 30% new oak. It is a spectacular wine that offers layers of raspberry, black licorice, spice, saddle leather, smoked herbs, and serious minerality on the nose. As with the straight Gigondas, this is not for those seeking instant gratification and is firm and structured on the palate, with rock solid mid-palate concentration, fresh acids, and masses of tannin. Give bottles 3-5 years and then plan on drinking over the following two decades.

Bright ruby. Cherry, black raspberry and garrigue on the seductively perfumed nose. Broad, palate-coating dark berry flavors show outstanding depth and energy, picking up exotic floral pastille and spice character with air. This seamless wine finishes with excellent clarity, power and lingering spiciness.