2011 RdV Vineyards Lost Mountain

The 2011 Lost Mountain is a blend of 50% Cabernet Sauvignon, 31% Cabernet Franc, 16% Merlot and 3% Petit Verdot. The test of a great winery is sometimes how they do in off years. There aren't many years in Virginia more off than 2011. Here, the vintage featured July hail storms and heavy September rains that diluted fruit in most of the state. RdV produced only a third of its normal output. Particularly when served after the 2010, this was set up to fail in my tasting, but it actually showed quite well. Clearly, it is not as dense as the 2010, but at the moment it is far more expressive. In a blind tasting, it might actually win just now, which is not the same as saying it is the better wine. In the long run, it's not. In the meanwhile, it's pretty glorious, though. Juicy and fresh, it has fine tannins and gorgeous, expressive flavor. It is a bit shorter on the finish than most in this issue's group and it may not hold quite as well, but at the moment it is certainly worth leaning up on it for the sheer pleasure it provides.