2005 Domaine Joseph Roty Griotte-Chambertin Grand Cru

The 2005 Griottes Chambertin required a bit of a shaking to rouse it from its reduction, but it blossomed to display intense aromas of licorice, black pepper, and diverse dark berries. Saturating the palate with rich, ripe yet fresh cherry and black raspberry, it displays exceedingly fine-grained tannins and a tactile spice, chalk, and black pepper finishing intensity. Philippe Roty and his brother have matters well in hand and are on their way to bottling (as always here, unfiltered) a superb collection of 2005s. That said, this won’t even begin happening until late Spring and some wines may not be bottled until year’s end. (Wines followed above by the initials P.R. are from Philippe’s vines and will be labeled with his name.) Prolonged skin contact and gentle but relentless extraction are the practice here, and in 2005 that has made for Pinots of almost shockingly deep color, abundant and firm but fine tannins, and terrific overall intensity. Also recommended: 2005 Marsannay (85-86+?). Importer: Alain Junguenet, Wines of France, Mountainside, NJ; tel. (908) 654-6173.

Bright ruby-red. Considerably more reduced than the Mazis, hinting at black cherry, licorice and pepper. Penetrating and sharply delineated, with lovely inner-mouth floral perfume. At once discreet and a bit wild, with blackberry, dark raspberry and cocoa powder flavors. The floral quality gives a captivating lift to the very long, subtle, sweetly tannic back end.