2009 DuMOL Syrah Jack Robert's Run

The 2009 Syrah Jack Robert’s Run Gregori Vineyard is a gorgeous wine layered with blackberries, tar, graphite, incense, camphor and game. In 2009 winemaker Andy Smith waited out the rain and harvested in late October. He was rewarded with a huge, opulent wine that possesses stunning richness and intensity yet is not at all heavy. A mineral-drenched finish adds the last layer of complexity. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2024. This is a very strong set of wines from DuMOL and winemaker Andy Smith. Like so many producers, DuMOL is in the midst of a stylistic shift that began around 2005. Smith described some of the estate’s earlier wines as a bit too heavy. Today’s approach emphasizes picking a bit earlier than in the past and places greater emphasis on complexity, structure and acidity. At times, the malolactic fermentations are blocked. The Chardonnays are barrel fermented and aged in oak (50% new) with all of their lees, but there is no stirring of the lees. Tel. (925) 254-8922; www.dumol.com

Inky and concentrated, with thrilling aromas of blackberry, lavender, pepper, candied violets, and bacon fat, the 2009 DuMOL Syrah Jack Robert's Run comes from a cool terroir on the western edge of the Russian River valley and was aged for 16 months in 40% new French oak. Full-bodied yet brilliantly focused and pure, with loads of richness, solid acids, and a structured finish, this top-notch Syrah should benefit from 2-3 years of bottle age, and have upwards of 10-12 years of longevity.