2010 Booker Vertigo

Booker’s 2010 Vertigo bursts from the glass with rich fruit. It is one of the more fruit-driven wines in the lineup. Dark red fruit, spices, mint, licorice and sweet herbs wrap around the fleshy finish. The blend is 63% Syrah, 25% Grenache and 12% Mourvedre, aged in 50% new oak barrels. With time in the glass, the wine’s freshness and aromatic nuances come to life. This is another stunning 2010 from Eric Jensen. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. Behind Eric Jensen’s outgoing, boisterous personality lies the mind of one of the most thoughtful and introspective winemakers in Paso Robles. An unending drive for perfection means Jensen is satisfied with nothing but the very best. Over the last few years, that has led to some serious rethinking in the vineyards and cellar. Today, the wines are more polished than they have ever been. I have also included notes on the ‘22’ series of wines that spend a few extra months in barrel. The handful of 2011s I tasted were delicate, perfumed and quite pretty, but with less depth and structure than either the 2009s or the 2010s. One day, when the vineyards of Westside Paso Robles are fully understood, I have little doubt Booker will occupy a place at or near the top. Eric Jensen’s relentless passion and commitment for excellence make Booker the single most exciting emerging property in Paso Robles. Tel. (805) 237-7367, www.bookerwines.com

A big, classic Booker Syrah, the 2010 Booker Vineyard Vertigo (63% Syrah, 25% Grenache, and 12% Mourvedre aged for 16 months in 70% new French oak) is loaded with juicy red and black fruits, dark chocolate, licorice, and subtle floral qualities to flow to a full-bodied, gorgeously textured wine. While there’s loads of texture and fruit here, this is far from soft, and possesses integrated acidity, notable balance, and a clean, focused finish. It should drink nicely for 5-8 years or more.