2012 Château Moulin-à-Vent La Rochelle

More fragrant and open than the Liger-Belair Rouchaux 2013 just tasted and just starting to show some hints of development. Firmly textured but very smooth, rounded. Opens up to reveal sweet red-cherry fruit and plum. Lifted on the nose then firmer and denser on the palate, especially with the red-wine-braised turbot served alongside. (JH)

The 2012 Moulin-a-Vent La Rochelle comes from 45-year-old vines and was cropped at 16 hectoliters per hectare. It initially has a more introspective bouquet that demands coaxing, but it is worth the effort as it reveals pure Morello cherry, red currant and cranberry scents that are neatly interlaced with minerals. The palate is medium-bodied with slightly chalky tannins. There is plenty of energy in this Moulin-a-Vent, and though it does not quite possess the length of a great vintage, it has impressive definition and focus. Drink 2015-2021. . The historic Chateau du Moulin-a-Vent traces its roots back to 1732, its name deriving from the windmill that crowns the hill of “Les Thorins.” Indeed, the estate was known as Chateau des Thorins until the introduction of the AOC in 1936. The celebrated French poet Alphonse de Lamartine is said to have fallen head over heels for the property and the daughter of its proprietor, Philiberte Pommier. In 2009, Jean-Jacques Parinet acquired the estate and he set about replanting 70,000 vines and overhauling the old wine cellar. There are now 37 hectares of vines that are treated lutte raisonee, with attention paid to specific terroirs within the vineyard, and that was borne out in a selection of very fine 2012s, which made the most of a very challenging vintage. Most of these wines are due for release in the United States in 2015 with the exception of the Couvent des Thorins. Importer: Wilson Daniels, St. Helena, CA. Also available through Flint Wines and Berry Brothers & Rudd in the UK.