2004 Larkmead LMV Salon

(14.7% alcohol): Bright full ruby. At once very ripe and subdued, displaying port-like aromas of kirsch , licorice, graphite and sexy sweet oak. Fat, lush and deep but still quite primary, conveying highly concentrated flavors of black fruits, licorice and chocolate cake. Finishes with huge, chewy tannins that still need years to resolve. I would expect this very unevolved blend to gain in complexity and round out with more bottle aging.

The 2004 Salon is a proprietary blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Cabernet Franc, 10% Petit Verdot, 8% Merlot and 3% Malbec. It possesses a youthful dense purple color along with an explosive nose of spring flowers, black raspberries and black currants, a touch of graphite, but no evidence of oak. The wine boasts extraordinary opulence and complexity, multiple dimensions, endless depth and richness, and perfect balance. This compelling 2004 is one of the superstars of the vintage. Approachable now, it should age for 20-30+ years, possibly as long as 50 years. Cam Baker, one of Northern Napa Valley’s iconic figures, administers this extraordinary terroir that was historically famous in the 1800s, but seemingly forgotten after Prohibition was repealed. However, over the last two decades, some remarkable cuvees have emanated from Larkmead. For my tastes, these wines are always dead ringers for great Pauillacs. Tel. (707) 942-0167; Fax (707) 942-6934

Bright medium ruby. High-pitched aromas of currant, cedar and smoke. Sweet, lush and rich; a step up in depth, structure and energy from the Firebelle and cabernet bottlings. Flavors of currant, tobacco, cedar and graphite. Finishes silky, long and classically dry, with a hint of herbs and ripe tannins. A very grown-up Bordeaux blend based on 61% cabernet sauvignon. This winery is to be commended for its fair pricing.