2008 Larkmead LMV Salon

Lots of graphite and lead pencil to the nose and palate. Full yet racy and long with a beautiful backbone of acidity and ultra-fine tannins. Almost a saltiness. Savory at the end. I like this slightly better than 2007. Wonderful length.

(a blend of 55% cabernet sauvignon, 18% cabernet franc and 9% each merlot, malbec and petit verdot): Ruby-red. Distinctly gravelly aromas of plum, minerals, menthol and tobacco. Dense but bright and high-pitched, with lively black fruit and bitter chocolate flavors complicated by licorice and flowers. Really conveys the energy of the best 2008s.

The 2008 LMV Salon is composed of 55% Cabernet Sauvignon, 18% Cabernet Franc, 9% Merlot, 9% Malbec and 9% Petit Verdot and is aged in a slightly higher percentage of new French oak (75%). It is the most restrained and austere wine in this portfolio, but it remains an elegant effort displaying hints of smoke, damp earth and tobacco leaf, moderate tannins and a pure style. It can be drunk now or cellared for 15+ years. When people talk about the greatest vineyards of Napa Valley, Larkmead has to be among the top half dozen or so terroirs. This historic vineyard dates back to the late 1800s and has been owned by the Solari family (currently Cam Baker and Kate Solari Baker) since 1948. The well-known Andy Smith is the consulting winemaker (he is also the force behind some of the brilliant wines of DuMol in the Russian River Valley). Larkmead has been making terrific wines over the last 5-6 years, but the 2007s were the finest wines I have ever tasted from this estate. The 2008s are very close in quality to the 2007s, and every 2008 performed better from bottle than it did last year from barrel (always a good sign). The Larkmead Vineyard (just over 120 acres) has again achieved remarkable success in 2009. These offerings are among the stars of the 2009 vintage. If the 2008s and 2007s were versions of Napa Valley meeting Pauillac, the 2009s might be considered Napa Valley wines meeting both Pomerol and Pauillac. They all possess silky tannins, deep, concentrated fruit, full body and upfront personalities that will make them even more charming than the brilliant 2007s and 2008s. There is lots of depth as well as perfumed characters in the 2009s. In fact, their aromatics may turn out to be even more intense and expansive than in either 2008 or 2007. In case you missed them, although I think they are completely sold out, the scores awarded to the 2007s last year are: 2007 LMV Salon (97), 2007 Firebelle (93), 2007 Solari Reserve (96+), 2007 The Lark (96+), and 2007 Estate (94+). Tel. (707) 942-0167; Fax (707) 942-6934