2008 Wind Gap Syrah Sonoma Coast

The 2008 Syrah reveals lovely inner perfume in its dark fruit, sweet herbs, licorice and tar. This soft, understated Syrah impresses for its length, inner sweetness and gorgeous, well-articulated finish. The 2008 is a blend of fruit from Clary Ranch, Nellessen Vineyard and Armagh Vineyard, fermented with 100% whole clusters and aged in neutral oak. It is a terrific wine, especially for the money. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2018. I was deeply impressed with many of the wines I tasted from Wind Gap and proprietors Pax and Pamela Mahle. The estate favors cooler, marginal sites. The wines are made with a very natural approach, which is to say the grapes are crushed by foot, aging is largely done in neutral oak and the wines are bottled without fining or filtration. Best of all, many of these wines sell for very reasonable prices. Readers should note that Mahle’s Agharta line-up is reviewed separately. Pax Mahle told me he plans to re-launch his Pax label in the near future. Tel. (707) 887-9100; www.windgapwines.com

A spitting image of a top Saint Joseph, the 2008 Wind Gap Wines Syrah Sonoma Coast sports brilliant, classic aromas of smoked bacon, cracked pepper, and gamey black fruits on the nose. Violets and assorted floral notes show with air, and this has fantastic purity and focus. On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied with a supple, fresh profile, brilliant detail, and a seamless, yet well-structured finish. Beautiful now, this should continue to shine for 8-10 years.