2006 Arietta H Block Hudson Vineyard

(a 60/40 blend of cabernet franc and merlot): Bright full ruby-red. Brooding aromas of black cherry, licorice and bitter chocolate, complicated by graphite minerality and black olive. Lusher in texture than the nose suggests but also vinous and precise, with dark fruit, coffee and espresso notes that reminded me a bit of St. Emilion. The substantial dusty, building tannins avoid coming off as dry; in fact, they're quite plush even if this wine still calls for at least three or four more years in the cellar. Very 2006 in style.

(60% cabernet franc and 40% merlot, co-fermented) Deep ruby-red. Complex nose melds black and red fruits, licorice, minerals, dark chocolate and dried herbs. Smooth and creamy on the palate, with good weight but also excellent energy. This lush, sweet blend tightens up toward the back, finishing with noteworthy breadth and substantial dusty tannins.

The 2006 Proprietary Red H Block Hudson Vineyard offers spicy, chocolaty, menthol, burning ember, red and black fruit, asphalt, truffle, graphite, and oak characteristics. While this is an impressive offering, the tannins are more noticeable than they were last year, and the wine is more closed and backward. Give it 4-5 years of cellaring, and drink it over the following two decades. Some of California’s more innovative wines emerge from proprietor Fritz Hatton, the well-known auctioneer who is also a classical pianist. Hatton has been expanding his portfolio with each new vintage, and it appears his blended cuvees turn out more interesting than the varietal wines. Usually a blend of 55-60% Cabernet Franc and the rest Merlot is the proprietary red wine from the H Block of the Hudson Vineyard. The most expensive offering in the portfolio, it is very Cheval Blanc-like. Tel. (707) 963-5918; Fax (707) 963-5919