2009 J. Rochioli Pinot Noir Little Hill

The 2009 Pinot Noir Little Hill is all about muscle, power and intensity. This broad-shouldered wine needs a few years in the cellar, but it will thrill readers who adore bigger, bolder Pinots. Today the 2009 Little Hill is all about the future. Black cherries, menthol and sweet baking spices are woven together beautifully in this promising Pinot. Anticipated maturity: 2014-2020. I came away deeply impressed by the wines I tasted with Tom Rochioli. The 2010 Chardonnays are absolutely gorgeous. The cold, late-harvest provides a wonderful balance to the inherent richness that is typically present in the wines. Rochioli is one of the later growers to pick. The 2010 Chardonnays were fermented in barrel. Rochioli stirred the lees every week until January, then once every few weeks until the wines were moved to tank in July. The wines spent three weeks in tank and were bottled in August 2011. The Pinot Noirs are stunning in both 2009 and 2010. As is the case throughout the Sonoma Coast, the 2009s are more consistent across the board, but the best 2010s may very well prove to be superior. For now what is certain is that the 2010 Pinots show a level of verve and focus that is missing from the 2009s. Either way, it’s hard to go wrong with any of these big, exuberant Pinots. Tom Rochioli is a bit of recluse, which means his wines remain known only to a relatively small group of consumers. Prices are very reasonable considering the quality of what is in the bottle. Tel. (707) 433-2305

Vivid ruby. Pungent floral, cherry-cola and dark berry aromas complicated by a smoky mineral tone. Sweet and deeply concentrated, with a liqueur-like density but no lack of verve to the dark fruit flavors. Builds and deepens on the back half, finishing with serious cling. Offers a compelling mix of power and purity of flavor and should reward patience.