2014 Thomas Pinot Noir Dundee Hills

The 2014 Pinot Noir from Thomas is just brilliant. You can put me on record: winemaker John Thomas oversees the finest Pinot outside the Côte d’Or. Redcurrant and cranberry unfold on the nose with fantastic delineation and vibrancy. It just exudes tension and purity. The palate is framed by almost brittle tannins, a precise silver bead of acidity that means this Pinot has a surfeit of freshness and verve, yet there is ample depth of pure red fruit and a youthful finish that exerts subtle grip. It is simply brilliant. Many years ago, I promised the elusive winemaker not to assign scores or review his wines. So, apologies, but since my late colleague Josh Raynolds reviewed this wine eight years ago, I hope Thomas doesn’t mind me adding another couple of points.

Limpid ruby-red. Black raspberry, cherry cola, pungent flowers and a hint of woodsmoke on the deeply perfumed nose. Pliant, sweet and penetrating on the palate, offering gently sweet red and dark berry, cola and spicecake flavors and subtle herb and earth flourishes. In an ample, fleshy style for this producer, but there's no lack of energy here. Closes sweet, gently spicy and very long, with repeating dark berry and smoke notes and sneaky tannins lending grip.