2019 Kosta Browne Pinot Noir Bootlegger's Hill

Fascinating notes of thyme and bay leaf to the crushed-stone and granite aromas and flavors. Resin and dried dark mushrooms. Dried flowers, too. Full-bodied with salted caramel and wet-earth undertones. Savory. Tight and reserved. Special. Drink or hold.

The 2019 Pinot Noir Bootlegger's Hill Vineyard evolves in the glass with dried cherry, sassafras, and wild herbs. It has impeccable concentration and length on the palate, which is full of cinnamon, red plum, and forest floor. Hold 1-3 years and drink 2024-2036. Founded by Dan Kosta and Michael Browne in 2001, today Kosta Browne is a part of the Duckhorn portfolio of wines. Winemaker Julien Howsepian, who has taken over from Nico Cueva, has been involved with the winery since 2012, when he had worked a harvest and subsequently became a full-time member of the team, working alongside Michael and Nico. Though the wines are still expressive of a full style, there has been some dialing back on ripeness over the past several years. Their reach has expanded in terms of regionality, but they continue to work exclusively with Chardonnay and Pinot Noir.

The 2019 Pinot Noir Bootlegger's Hill has a medium ruby color and bright aromas of Bing cherry, cranberry and citrus peel with accents of dried herbs, licorice and underbrush. The medium-bodied palate is grainy and fresh, with appealingly crunchy fruits and a long, spicy finish. Give it another year or two in bottle to unwind.