2019 Saxum James Berry Vineyard

The 2019 James Berry Vineyard checks in as 58% Grenache, 27% Mataro, 6% Syrah, 6% Graciano, and 3% Counoise that spent 21 months in 79% new French oak. It would stand up in a lineup of top Châteauneuf du Pape and has a gorgeous bouquet of black raspberries, ground pepper, flowery incense, and loamy earth. Pure, full-bodied, ultra-fine, and seamless, it builds with time in the glass, has ripe tannins, and a great finish. It shines just as much for its elegance and class as it does for its power and richness. It needs to be forgotten for 3-5 years but will be a 20- to 25-year wine from this estate. I was able to taste three vintages from Saxum, the late release 2019s from bottle, the majority of the 2020 lineup from barrel, and a handful of 2021 barrel samples. As I wrote last year, the 2019s are just brilliant, ripe, hedonistic, magical wines, and these late releases only reinforce that opinion. Looking at the 2020s, this is clearly a challenging vintage, with many wines having subtle smoky nuances and firmer yet still ripe tannins. Justin commented that the lab numbers regarding smoke taint were very low, so I think these are safe wines that will offer plenty of pleasure, although this is not a vintage to hide in the cellar. The 2021s that I was able to taste were terrific, and this will clearly be another terrific vintage here. In addition, they’ve planted a new vineyard located just four miles off the Pacific, the Cayucos Ridge Vineyard, and I expect we’ll see more releases from that site in the future.

Saturated violet. Heady, smoke- and mineral-accented blackberry, kirsch, fruitcake and candied lavender aromas show fine delineation and pick up a botanical herb note with aeration. Sweet and energetic in the mouth, offering concentrated cherry and dark berry preserve, exotic spice and floral pastille flavors braced by a core of juicy acidity. The impressively long, penetrating finish shows vibrant mineral cut, an echo of juicy blue fruit and well-judged tannins that sneak in late.

Medium ruby-purple, the 2019 James Berry Vineyard is an alluring blend of 58% Grenache, 27% Mataro, 6% Syrah, 6% Graciano and 3% Counoise. It has aromas of rhubarb, citrus peel, earth, bitters and tea leaves with a flourish of spicy accents. Medium-bodied, the palate is silky and fragrant with bursts of refreshing acidity calling you back on the long, spicy finish.