2013 E. Guigal Côte-Rôtie La Mouline

One of the more restrained and fresh vintages of this cuvée out there, the 2013 Côte Rôtie La Mouline still has a classic Mouline floral, gamey, and spicy bouquet to go with medium to full-bodied richness and depth on the palate. With good concentration, notable complexity, sweet tannin, and plenty of length, it needs 3-4 years of bottle age and will keep for 15+. Due to the timing of my visit (which was earlier than normal), I wasn’t able to taste a full lineup from Guigal. Nevertheless, even an abbreviated lineup from Guigal consists of more wines than just about every other producer I taste with. Looking at the 2016s, the white wines, especially from Condrieu, are brilliant and show the more fresh, vibrant style of this cooler, late vintage. The reds are very classic in style across the board. I’ll taste these again, mostly from barrel, next year as well, but this is certainly an excellent vintage. The 2015s, as I’ve written more than once now, are truly spectacular, and after tasting these wines multiple times from barrel now, I completely understand why Marcel Guigal would declare this the greatest vintage of his lifetime. These are rich, voluptuous, massive wines I think will represent a modern-day version of 1978. The 2014s continue to improve every time I taste them, which is common for this estate. Similar, perhaps, to a toned down 2012, these are charming, supple, elegant wines that are vastly more approachable than the 2013s. Lastly, the 2013s from bottle showed the backward, dark, mineral-laced profile of the vintage. They’re beautifully concentrated and terrific wines, yet the cellar is going to be your friend.

The 2013 Cote Rotie La Mouline shows none of the vintage’s sometimes dry tannins. It offers crisp black fruit—plums and blackberries—underscored by hints of pencil shavings, espresso and grilled meat. Suave and long, it should drink well for a couple of decades.

89% Syrah, 11% Viognier. Sweet spice, floral and black cherry in full effect. Expert balance – gives just enough bite from tannin while being entirely accessible. The perfume is the most notable thing here, and it gives a long spicy finish. (RH)