2014 Chateau Montelena Chardonnay Napa Valley

Holding its age very well, with no sign of bruising on the fruit, and still a good deal of zip. More savoury than the Napa norm, with well-integrated fruit and a very dry, mealy finish. (RH)

The 2014 Chardonnay from Montelena is outstanding. Coming all from the Oak Knoll region of the Valley (the southern part) and aged in French oak, it offers terrific notes of pineapple, white flowers, some exotic citrus/tangerine character, and just a hint of tropical fruits. Clean, vibrant, impeccably balanced and with a great finish, drink it anytime over the coming 8-10 years.

100% Chardonnay from west Oak Knoll on clay benchland near Orchard Ave. 10 acres and some plants planted in 1972. 45% of the Paris-tasting Chardonnay 1973 came from here (the rest came from Russian River). Over the decades it became a single-vineyard wine. Winemaker Matt Crafton. Usually picked early September, sometimes the last week of August – they're usually making Chardonnay on Labor Day. 50% whole bunch, 50% destemmed. They start fermentation in tank at 55 °F (12 °C). 10 months in French oak. They rarely stir unless the alcohols are very high, and never do malolactic fermentation. 7% new oak. 'A handful of us make Chardonnay to age, such as Hanzell, Stony Hill and Ramey.' They currently have a six-vintage vertical on the market. No premox. 'It was difficult to sell this style in late 1980s and early 1990s when Kendall Jackson Chard was so popular.' Bottled between 27 July and 7 August 2015, released 1 October 2016. Very little nose. Marked acidity. Pretty solid and chewy. Seems very youthful. (JR)