2023 St Joseph

The complex 2023 Saint-Joseph emerges initially with pronounced orange rind, fresh violets and pencil shavings. Black cherries add more nuance. Refined and smooth, the 2023 sports spot-on overall balance between elevated flavour concentration, fresh acidity and notably refined tannins lending gentle structure. A delicious red Saint-Joseph from the talented Gonon brothers that's going to benefit from at least two more years in a cool cellar.

Ripe black cherries, lavender, pepper, violets, and subtle game notes all emerge from the 2023 Saint Joseph. Medium to full-bodied, with fine tannins and remarkable elegance, it shows a silky, seamless texture and impressive length on the finish. Domaine Pierre Gonon remains one of the great names in Saint Joseph and is run today by brothers Jean and Pierre Gonon with the kind of focus and humility that defines the best of the Northern Rhône. The family's roots go back to the 1950s, when their father first planted vines in Mauves, including what would become the Coteau des Oliviers (today known as the lieu-dit Les Oliviers), a steep hillside vineyard just outside of Mauves that consistently produces some of the greatest whites in the appellation, likely due to its slightly higher clay content, which gives the wines a touch more breadth and depth. The domaine now farms around ten hectares, with holdings spread across Mauves, Tournon, and Saint-Jean-de-Muzols. In 2011, the brothers acquired the old vines of Raymond Trollat, one of the legendary figures of the appellation, including the 1915 Aubert family planting in the Saint-Épine sector. That fruit now forms the core of their Saint Joseph and, in certain vintages, the basis for a small-production Vieilles Vignes cuvée. Farming is organic, vine material is massale-selected, and the cellar approach remains minimalist and traditional, with native yeast fermentations, aging in older 600-liter barrels, and mostly destemmed fruit. These are absolutely classic Northern Rhône wines that bring beautiful structure, depth, and nuance, which come not only from great terroirs but from an incredible dedication to farming and work ethic. While their red Saint Joseph is firmly established as one of the most sought-after wines in the Northern Rhône, the hidden gem here might just be the Saint Joseph Les Oliviers Blanc, which consistently ranks among the region's top whites.

Classic to the core, the 2023 Saint-Joseph used 80% whole clusters during fermentation. Linear and precise, it dazzles with a complex aromatic profile, bundling pencil shaving, crushed violet, red plum and black cherry alongside peppery undertones. Hitting the medium-bodied palate with utter refinement, the 2023 is shaping up to be yet another outstanding Saint-Joseph from the talented Gonon brothers.