1990 Gevrey Chambertin Fontenys

Anyone who has visited the Roty cellars knows that while interesting, one's stay can be painfully long given (1) Roty's chain smoking, (2) incessant non-wine talk, and (3) general reluctance to answer specific questions. At the top end, his 1990s are every bit as superb as his 1980s and 1985s. While similarly styled to the Gevrey-Chambertin-Champs Chenys, the lighter-colored Gevrey-Chambertin-Le Fonteny tastes more elegant. It exhibits fine ripeness, medium-body, spicy richness, elevated tannins, and gobs of toasty new oak. Importer: Wine Markets International, Syosset, NY.