2012 Chablis

The 2012 Chablis, which had been bottled in February, has a crisp and slightly herbaceous bouquet that is well-defined, almost Loire-like in character. The palate is fresh and vibrant with crisp acidity. Touches of undergrowth infuse the green apple and gooseberry fruit, with a simple but crisp and enticing finish. Drink now-2016. My final visit of the day was to see Didier Picq, located on the main road through Chichee. I concur with David Schildknecht that he was one of the most under-estimated vignerons in Chablis and if you want a masterclass in Chablis translated through the medium of neutral stainless steel vessels, then this is a place to come. Didier is one of those winemakers chiseled from a lifetime in the vineyard, vitis vinifera part of his DNA. He told me that the 2013s were harvested from September 27 until October 8, and the 2012s from September 23 until October 1. Since the vintage curtailed yields in 2013, Didier had to combine some separate crus together, not least because the large vats preclude him from vinifying quantities that are too small to fill them. Importers Vintage 59, Washington, DC; tel. (202) 966-9218 and Polaner Selections, Mount Kisko, NY; tel. (914) 244-0404. Also available through Berry Brothers & Rudd in the UK.

Pale yellow color. White pepper and white truffle on the nose. Dry and classic, with good inner-mouth tension to the citrus and mineral flavors. Sappy acidity gives this excellent village wine an easily digestible quality and good finishing grip.

A gorgeous, broad-shouldered wine, Picq's 2012 Chablis boasts serious depth and density. Yellow-fleshed fruit, nutmeg, dried flowers and mint all flesh out in an expansive, textured wine loaded with personality. This is a strong vintage for Picq's straight Chablis.