2015 Thalassitis Assyrtiko

The 2015 Thalassitis has been seen before, but since it just arrived again, let's see where we are with several months more of bottle age. Fresh and crisp, this has a wonderfully sunny demeanor with a finish that lingers. It does not have the depth I've seen in some Santorinis this vintage and you need to give it some warmth and air to make sure its acidity is in balance--so, this can be a little deceptive in its youth. It becomes one of the most refreshing and enlivening wines of the vintage. It impresses in its own way. The zing, zest and tension on the lingering finish make it a delight. I came back six hours later. As it aired and warmed, it was simply intense, showing even more pure power. The acidity should serve it in good stead as it ages. I am a bit curious as to how it puts itself together in the cellar, but this time I think I need to lean up, not down. It might even flesh out a bit with time. It won't ever be less than very fine, no matter what. There were 63,772 bottles produced.

Both stony and herbal and a creamy layer. Intensely aromatic and then both aromatic and steely on the palate. Intense, bone dry and impressive length. (JH)