2012 Chateauneuf du Pape Cuvee Boisrenard

A step up over the classic cuvée, the 2012 Châteauneuf du Pape Boisrenard, which is mostly old-vine Grenache yet incorporates all 13 of the allowed varieties, leans heavily toward the more fresh, focused and elegant end of the spectrum. Giving up notions of spice-box, dried licorice and mulled black berry fruits, it’s an outstanding effort, yet I can’t help but think this cuvée was more impressive in the past when it had more power and richness. Nevertheless, it should drink nicely for 10-12 years.

Bright purple. Sexy, oak-tinged aromas of dark berry preserves, Asian spices and potpourri, with a subtle garrigue nuance in the background. Supple and seamless in texture, offering sweet black raspberry and cherry-cola flavors and a touch of licorice. Zesty acidity adds lift and cut to the clinging, very long finish.