2016 Pinot Noir Ryan

From the cooler Green Valley portion of the Russian River, the 2016 Pinot Noir Widdoes Vineyard shows the classic, balanced, yet sexy style of this vintage. Terrific black raspberries, blueberries, ground herbs, and floral notes all emerge from this medium to full-bodied, forward, textured 2016 that has good acidity and impeccable balance. It’s going to keep for 10-12 years, although there’s no need to delay gratification either. I still remember tasting with Andy Smith while I was writing The Rhône Report and I was thrilled to be able to sit down and go through all of his wines on this occasion. Stylistically, Smith makes a fresh, vibrant style of wine, yet I never find them lacking for depth and or texture. Looking at the Chardonnays, these are made in a reductive, age-worthy style and the clear majority have distinctly Burgundian profiles. These are beautiful wines that, at least to my palate, surpass the quality of the Pinot Noirs, which are slightly more variable. Nevertheless, the top Pinot Noirs are certainly up with the crème de la crème of the region. While Andy favors a tight, age-worthy style of Chardonnay, the Pinot Noirs are made in a slightly more forward style. In addition to the Pinot Noirs and Chardonnays, DuMOL also produces a handful of world-class Syrahs, as well as one of the top examples of Viognier coming out of California. Both the 2015s and 2016s reviewed here are terrific wines, with the 2016s showing slightly more balance and elegance, but you can’t go wrong with either vintage here.

Medium to deep ruby-purple colored, the 2016 Pinot Noir Ryan has notions of crushed black cherries, blackberries and black raspberries with touches of anise, fertile loam, truffles and dark chocolate. Medium-bodied with a firm frame of grainy tannins and bags of freshness, it finishes long with a firm, compelling grip.

The 2016 Pinot Noir Ryan Widdoes Vineyard is one of the highlights in this range of Pinots. Bright, floral notes and punch, red-toned fruit give the 2016 presence and vivacity. A rush of pomegranate, red cherry, blood orange and star anise build into the voluptuous, racy finish. There is so much to like here. The Widdoes emerges from a dry farmed parcel planted with Martini clone Pinot, which is always so distinctive.