2008 La Proportion Doree
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Tasting notes
(68% semillon, 30% sauvignon blanc and 2% muscadelle; no malolactic fermentation) Good bright yellow. Highly nuanced aromas of peach, apricot, citrus peel, honeysuckle and ginger. Densely packed, broad and sweet, with a layered texture and considerable viscosity to the flavors of ripe quince, citrus oil, flowers and spices. This blend boasts terrific lift considering its full ripeness. Morlet will hold back 200 six-packs of this wine for a later release, as he is eager to show collectors how semillon with sauvignon and muscadelle will gain complexity as it ages. Made from a blend of seven vineyards, as Morlet recently found some semillon vines that he says are more than a century old.
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Average Score
Robert Parker
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
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Readers should not miss the 2008 La Proportion Doree, a 660-case blend of 68% Semillon, 30% Sauvignon Blanc, and 2% Muscadelle. It is a superb example of what can be done with French savoir-faire and California grapes. Glorious aromas of honeyed caramelized figs, honeysuckle, melons, and orange blossoms are followed by a medium to full-bodied white with beautiful acidity, length, and richness. A tour de force in dry white winemaking, it should drink nicely for 3-4 years. This is a brilliant portfolio of wines from Frenchman Luc Morlet. Production for these cuvees ranges from a low of 75 cases for several of the Chardonnays and Pinot Noirs, to a high of 660 cases for the Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc/Muscadelle blend called La Proportion Doree. Only indigenous yeasts are used in the fermentations as well as 100% French oak barrels, there is no fining or filtration, and all the wines are made with a hand-crafted zeal for high quality. The 2007 and 2008 Chardonnays would make a tremendous comparative tasting to decide which vintage turned out better. In most cases, 2007 gets the nod, but at this estate, it’s pretty much a dead heat. I suspect the only way to secure any of the Morlet Family Vineyards’ wines is to get on their mailing list. Tel. (707) 967-8690; Fax (707) 967-8590