2006 La Proportion Doree

(66% semillon, 32% sauvignon blanc and 2% muscadelle) Pale, bright yellow. Highly complex aromas of lemon, honey, herbs, white flowers and nuts, plus a suggestion of lanolin. Dense and lush but bright; thick yet light on its feet, with complex flavors of grapefruit peel, citrus blossom, spices and herbs. Impressively seamless wine with excellent energy. The sauvignon and semillon come mostly from 26-year-old dry-farmed vines in Dry Creek Valley, while the muscadelle is from Napa Valley vines more than 50 years of age. Morlet told me the blend is roughly "an average of the blends of Haut-Brion Blanc and Laville Haut-Brion."

One would be hard-pressed to find a better Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc blend than the 2006 La Proportion Doree, which is a blend of two-thirds Semillon and one-third Sauvignon with a touch of Muscadelle added in. Barrel-fermented and aged in wood, there are 580 cases of this wine, which has a gorgeous nose of honeyed figs, lemon grass, melon, and citrus oil. A full-bodied, dry, beautifully textured, superb white Bordeaux look-alike, it should drink well for 5-6 years. Luc Morlet has been traveling a lot, with his older brother taking over for him at Peter Michael, where he still remains in a quasi-consulting role. He seemed to be settled at Staglin Family Vineyards, but that lasted only a few months, and he is doing what he wants now, producing his own wines. These are the debut releases. (While there will be two Chardonnays added to the portfolio, most of this is from the Sonoma Coast.) These are very impressive wines. Tel. (707) 967-8690; Fax (707) 967-8590