2011 Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs

Fresh apple with prominent tartness of its skin and pit-like piquancy, render Wittmann’s 2011 Westhofener Morstein Riesling Grosses Gewachs at once bracing and slightly severe. Musky, faintly animal notes and a sense of chalky, stony suffusion add intrigue to this sappy, overtly dense and undeniably gripping bottling that’s apt to retain its stamina for at least a half-dozen years, if not necessarily to become more winsome. A new receiving line incorporating a vibrating sorting table is among the latest manifestations of Philipp Wittmann’s continuing drive to render what are already some of the most sought-after wines in Germany steadily better. Any fear that Riesling here might suffer from deficient vivacity or juiciness in 2011 was quickly banished once I began tasting. The last fruit wasn’t picked this year in Morstein until October 17, yet retained a formidable 8.5 grams of acidity, by which point raisined fruit had to be sorted-out. Importer: Frederick Wildman & Sons, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700