2005 Riesling Privat

Nigl’s 2005 Riesling Privat – from the Piri – both smells and tastes of scallops and shrimp shells, along with the more expected fine herbs, flowers, and citrus. The palate impression is cool and refined, with juicy melon and citrus subtly laced with floral, herbal, and marine mineral notes. Leaner than the other Rieslings here today, it is also exceptionally long and refined, and full of fascinating interplay. I would pick this to improve for a decade in the cellar. One reason for the quality and personality of this bottling can be glimpsed in a smoky, sweaty, intensely aromatic, voluminous, but disappointingly short (conceivably bottle-shocked) “Riesling Reserve” that constitutes a first picking in the best portions of the Piri to cull botrytized fruit. Importer: Terry Theise Estate Selections, imported by Michael Skurnik Wines, Inc., Syosset, NY; tel. (516) 677-9300