2003 Barolo Rocche

I have always enjoyed the Vietti wines, but in recent years they have stepped up quality in a remarkable manner. The wines from the 2000s amply prove that the estate is making the best wines it has in its long, storied history. The 2003 was also big and full-bodied, yet it showed remarkable freshness considering the vintage. Though a great effort in a difficult vintage, the 2003 clearly suffered when compared to the 2001 and the 2004 that followed. In many ways the best was saved for last.

Moderately saturated medium red. Tight aromas of redcurrant, licorice and cedary oak, with a whiff of herbs. Sweet on entry, then a bit lean and imploded in the middle, with the slight greenness joined by balsamic and white truffle notes. Not at all easy today, but the slightly dry tannins are fairly suave in the context of the vintage. Luca Currado describes this as "a wild animal for aging."

The 2003 Barolo Rocche is sweeter and more vibrant than the Castiglione, with a plush palate presence and suggestions of cherries, flowers ans spices. The aromatics that are typically such a large part of this wine's personality have been somewhat surpressed by the hot vintage, but this rich, expansive Barolo is nevertheless very pleasurable. A few years of bottle age should help the tannins settle down.