2002 Cabernet Sauvignon Napa Valley

The non-estate Cabernet Sauvignon, which is now completely sourced from Calistoga vineyards, provides a fine introduction to the Montelena winemaking style. Normally Bo Barrett includes 10-15% Merlot in the blend, and these wines often age for 10-15 years. The 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon is the sexiest of the three most recent vintages. A soft, deep ruby/purple-tinged offering with loads of black currant fruit as well as hints of damp earth, licorice, and underbrush, this silky-textured, opulent Cabernet Sauvignon will provide delicious drinking over the next 10 plus years. At the end of my tastings, Bo Barrett opened a 1986 Montelena (rated 94), and it is still incredibly young, rich, vibrant, and full-bodied. It is a terrific expression of Calistoga Cabernet Sauvignon made by a master. It appears to have another 20-25 years of aging potential. Tel. (707) 942-5105; Fax (707) 942-4221

(an 80/20 blend of cabernet sauvignon and merlot) Red-ruby. Sweet, expressive aromas of plum, currant, loam and tobacco. Supple and fat but dry, with good flavor intensity. Seems fatter and riper than the more medicinal 2001. Finishes with substantial broad, dusty tannins.

Bright medium ruby. Purer aromas of cassis, black cherry and bitter chocolate. Very ripe but also powerful and penetrating; shows more mid-palate flesh than the 2001, but also a wider range of fruit ripeness. In a dense, rather brawny style, with an almost medicinal austerity today. The serious tannins show a youthfully dry edge. Due to the sizable percentage of small, dehydrated berries, the crop level was ultimately about 35% lower than projections made at the beginning of September, according to assistant winemaker Nile Zacherle, who took over winemaking duties at Barnett Vineyards on Spring Mountain shortly after my tasting at Montelena.