2008 Quinta do Vallado Reserva

The 2008 Reserva is 25% Touriga Nacional (from 10– to 15-year-old vines) and 75% a field blend from 80-plus-year-old vines, all aged in new French oak for 17 months. This is part of our vertical this report. Tasted after the 2007 in this vertical (obviously), this provides a striking contrast. Of course, that is true of many 2007/2008 comparisons in Douro. The 2007s tend to be riper and richer, while the 2008s tend to be fresher and lighter. This is a wine that is not nearly as expressive in its fruit profile as the 2007, but it has plenty of power and a crisp edge that many may prefer over the ripe and burly 2007. While this sometimes has a more intellectual and somewhat more rustic demeanor, it is a very fine and rather precise 2008 that I came to like a lot. Which style you prefer is up to you, of course. It may well be that consumers will choose up sides, but I do think the 2007 is the better wine today and in the long run. Both this and that 2007 are still on the upswing, however, even though both show some tertiary nuances, so the race is not quite over. Overall, this has come along well, but its style won't be for everyone.