2009 Chablis Clos des Hospices

The 2009 Les Clos Clos des Hospices is a huge wine in this vintage. It turns positively explosive on the palate, with intense yellow stone fruit, minerals, flowers and oak. This is a decidedly round, voluminous style shaped by the 45% oak. I am not sure it will be a particularly long-lived wine, but it will deliver plenty of enjoyment over the coming years. The Clos des Hospices was aged 45% in oak. As is the custom with this bottling, the percentage of newer barrels is higher than in the straight Les Clos. The 2010 seems inherently better suited to the oak than the 2009. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2019. Fabien Moreau, Christian Moreau’s son, is a sixth-generation winemaker. Despite a rich family lineage, Domaine Christian Moreau is a relatively new estate. The winery was founded in 2002 upon Christian Moreau’s exit from the family’s negociant business following its sale to Boisset. Domaine Christian Moreau farms 12 hectares of vineyards, of which 5.5 are grand cru and 4.5 premier cru. The Domaine lost 30-45% of their crop in 2010 to low yields caused by an irregular flowering that dragged out over three weeks instead of the customary ten days because of unusually cool, damp weather. According to Fabien Moreau the high presence of millerandage (shot berries) and shatter mark the 2010s to a great degree. Vintage 2010 is the first year the Domaine is certified biodynamic. Aside from some hail in early July, which mostly affected Vaillons, the rest of the growing season here proceeded with little in the way of complications until the harvest, which started on September 21st. The wines had high acidity and plenty of malic acid, so the 2010s completed 100% of their malos. I tasted all of the 2009s from bottle and the 2010s in approximate final blends from tank. Moreau ages a portion of their top wines in barrel. In 2009, oak levels were down slightly as Fabien Moreau was concerned that the oak might overpower wines with the naturally lower acidities that are characteristic of that year. Importer: Frederick Wildman and Sons Ltd, New York, NY; tel. (212) 355-0700

Bright, full yellow. Rather shut down on the nose, hinting at orange peel, nutmeg and minerals. Denser and more savory than the "regular" Clos, but at the same time silkier (the vines here are older). A stronger oak element contributes to the impression of breadth and dryness. More bracing on the long finish than the thick palate suggests, with a piquant note of pineapple. I'd give this very rich and saline wine a few years to absorb some of its oak.

Bright, light yellow. Very ripe aromas of lemon, ginger and sexy oak, plus a whiff of smoky reduction. Sweet, lush and lemony; comes across as both larger and gentler than the "regular" Clos. Rather like a Puligny-Montrachet in style but with no shortage of minerality. Today I'm not convinced that this wine from deeper soil lower down on the hill is better than the Clos, but in a dry year like 2009 that's often the case.