2005 Chardonnay Beresini

The most prodigious effort in this quartet is the 2005 Tor Chardonnay Cuvee Torchiana, which also is made from an old Wente Chardonnay clone grown in a cool climate. The wine shows virtually no wood in its aromas or flavors. Nectarine, orange marmalade, lemon oil, white peach, and brioche notes are found in this full-bodied effort, along with terrific acidity, laser-like focus, and a long finish. It should drink well for 5-7 years. It is just fabulous. Good things happen to good people, and Tor Kenward is not only one of the leaders in the wine business (he’s a longtime executive at Beringer), but he is also a true wine connoisseur, humanitarian, and a burgeoning high quality wine producer. His concentration on Burgundian-styled, single vineyard Chardonnays, or single clones, some impressive Syrahs under the Tor Rock label, and some fabulous Cabernet Sauvignon under the Tor label, has gotten him off to a rocket ship-like launch. Production remains under 3,000 cases (and it is not likely to increase), but this winery is well-worth following as the wines are hand-crafted and bursting with personality. Tor Kenward was a Rhone wine enthusiast long before those wines became fashionable. In an attempt to emulate some of the top-notch French Rhones, he has sought out cool vineyard sites in the Bennett Valley and southern Napa. Tor Kenward and his winemaker, Jeff Ames, are equally attuned to Cabernet Sauvignon. They produce three cuvees, including a brilliant effort from Yountville’s Mast Vineyard, a more mineral-dominated, tannic wine from the Cimarossa Vineyard on Howell Mountain, and an offering from one of the classic sites for Napa Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville’s Beckstoffer To-Kalon Vineyard. Tel. (707) 963-3100; Fax (707) 963-3114