1999 Robert Foley Claret

There are 400 cases of this blend of equal parts Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot from Pride Mountain Vineyard's winemaker, Robert Foley. Sadly, most of the 1998 (which I reviewed in issue #141) was destroyed in a warehouse fire. The only bottles that survived were those from his personal cellar and a handful of bottles provided as samples to distributors. The opaque purple-colored 1999 is a seamless classic, offering a sweet perfume of coffee, mocha, graphite, black cherries, licorice, and cassis. The wine reveals sweet tannin, beautiful purity, and a gorgeous layered texture. It should drink well for 15+ years. Tel. (707) 965-2669

Saturated purple-ruby. Reticent but nuanced nose suggests blackberry, violet, licorice, minerals and mint. Very intensely flavored and densely packed but quite tight today. The wine strong underlying minerality and firm acidity contribute to the powerful impression of backbone. Not hugely sweet today but impressively long, with very fine tannins.