2011 Russian River Valley Chardonnay

The buttery-styled 2011 Chardonnay Russian River exhibits more tropical fruit (mango and pineapple) and hints of hazelnut and smoky oak. Medium-bodied and crisp, it is slightly more evolved than the Sonoma Coast and thus should be consumed over the next 1-2 years. David Ramey has long had one of the most impressive resumes for any California winemaker. He worked at Chateau Petrus in Bordeaux and for Christian Moueix at Dominus. He also consulted and worked for a number of high end Napa Valley wineries. Of course, his first love is Ramey Wine Cellars, and he has built an extensive empire of Chardonnays, Cabernet Sauvignons and more recently Syrahs as well as a tiny quantity of Pinot Noir (talk about going to the dark side). I tasted through his 2011 Chardonnays, which are successful in this challenging vintage. The generic Chardonnays spend 12 months in 25% new oak and the single vineyard cuvees spend 20 or more months in 50% new oak. All of the whites are fermented with indigenous yeasts. Ramey has also done a terrific job with Syrah, even though he says it is nearly impossible to sell in today’s marketplace. Ramey has actually reduced the price on his two fabulous 2010 Syrahs, and it is difficult for somebody like me who loves Syrah and knows how great they can be to understand how these wines can be such a challenge in the marketplace. Ramey’s early experience was primarily with Bordeaux varietals, so it’s not surprising that he continues to do a stunning job with his assortment of Bordeaux-based wines. As one might expect, the 2011s are soft, easy-to-drink efforts that many consumers may find more appealing than the 2010s, which are much bigger, richer and more classic. Tel. (707) 473-9167

This was from a half bottle, admittedly, but John Gilman and I who shared it over lunch at the Gotham Bar & Grill agreed that it was irredeemably dull, despite our high esteem for Dave Ramey. It even had a hint of that pineapple chunk aroma that clung to so many New World Chardonnays throughout the 1980s and 1990s. A strange aberration? (JR)