2007 Pinot Noir Katherine Lindsay Estate

The 2007 Pinot Noir Lindsay Estate exhibits a distinctive nose of chocolate, cocoa, black cherries, plums, earth, and pomegranate. Displaying terrific fruit as well as an expansive, full-bodied mouthfeel, the wine has filled out considerably since last year. Readers looking for wines packed with flavor as well as personality can do no better than uber-consultant Paul Hobbs’ line-up of Chardonnays, Pinot Noirs, and Syrahs. All of his bottled wines showed even stronger than they did from barrel tastings. All of these Chardonnays spend between 10 and 16 months in barrel, with the percentage of new oak ranging from 80% (for the Cuvee Agustina), 70% (for the Walker Station), and 55-65% for the Ritchie, Ulises Valdez, and Richard Dinner cuvees. The 2008 Chardonnays, while very good, are not up to the level of the flawless 2007s. The 2008 Pinot Noirs performed well, although they are slightly lower-keyed wines without the structure and density of the 2007s. Paul Hobbs produces Syrah from the Kick Ranch Vineyard, which is in the so-called Petaluma Wind Gap (lots of wind and a cool coastal temperature). Tel. (707) 824-9879; Fax (707) 824-5843

Bright ruby. Lively aromas of red and dark berries, blood orange and yellow rose. Sappy red fruit flavors are framed by dusty tannins and lifted by a peppery quality. Deeper dark fruits arrive on the finish, with the tannins gaining strength without masking the fruit. I'd put this away for a few more years, at least. These are Calera and Swan clones.