2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Tierra Roja Vineyard Oakville

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Tierra Roja Vineyard (a 4-acre Oakville parcel situated directly below the Dalla Valle vineyards) is a backward, full-bodied, tannic wine boasting an inky/purple color as well as a big, sweet nose of loamy soil, wet rocks, red and black currants, blueberries and incense. Ripe, full-bodied and built for the long haul, this wine should be forgotten for 3-4 years and drunk over the following 20+ years. Tor Kenward, the long-time PR rep for the Beringer empire, has his own project for a number of years and he continues to build an impressive portfolio of fascinating wines that reflect his love of Napa Valley and his own personal preference for complex wines. Incidentally, he has one of the great wine collections of Napa and he is one of those true connoisseurs who is happy to share his best bottles. While production levels for the wines in this portfolio are relatively small, all of them are top-notch, interesting efforts. Tasting through three vintages of Tor’s Cabernet Sauvignons left me with the impression that this winery continues to go from strength to strength. Despite the issues of valley floor vineyards, Tor has done well in 2011. He told me that the rot that afflicted many valley floor vineyards was very site specific, and the only way to ensure clean, pure wines was low yields, open canopies, culling out affected bunches or berries, and Draconian-like sorting procedures. It appears he has done all of that given the success of his 2011s, which, with the exception of the Cimarossa, are low elevation vineyards. I also tasted five barrel samples from 2012, a large, easy vintage with no problems of any serious consequence. Tel. (707) 963-3100

(with 3% petit verdot): Dark ruby-red. Knockout nose combines cassis, dusty spices, minerals, cocoa powder and tobacco leaf. Plush and soft in the mid-palate, with perfectly harmonious acidity giving shape to the flavors of dark berries, dark chocolate and tobacco. This is wonderfully round wine but needs at least a few more years in bottle to express itself fully. Finishes with good full, ripe tannins and lovely lingering sweetness.

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Tierra Roja Vineyard is endowed with serious minerality and pure energy. Dark red berries, menthol and licorice all meld together in a deep, powerful Cabernet Sauvignon loaded with structure and power. The Tierra Roja is all about minerality, with layer after layer of crushed rocks, iron and graphite notes that grace the finish. Tor's Tierra Roja will appeal most to readers who are looking for intensity and drive in Cabernet Sauvignon. As good as this is - and it is outstanding - there is little of the early appeal found in some of the estate's other Cabernets.