2019 Cuvee Keltie Syrah

The 2019 Syrah Cuvée Keltie shows a ton of cool-climate character. Black fruit, pepper, game, licorice, iron, incense and dried herbs are all amped in this potent, brooding Syrah. I especially admire the beguiling combination of ripe dark fruit and more savory, cool-climate nuances, a signature of the 2019 Syrahs at Donelan. This opens beautifully through the mid-palate and into the finish.

I loved the 2019 Syrah Cuvee Keltie, which saw the use of 100% whole clusters for fermentation and pours a deep but transparent purple/ruby. It displays a savory profile that’s lifted and fresh with the spice of black pepper, red and black berries, and wet asphalt. Medium to full-bodied, it has terrific elegance and a graceful feel, with fresh flowers, savory herbs, and crunchy black cherry through the palate. Offering stunning balance and impeccable length, it will continue to improve over the coming 10-15 years if stored properly. Drink 2025-2040. Joe Donelan came to the wine world after he received what he calls “a life-changing education” from a sommelier on Nantucket in the 1980s. Today he is joined by his two sons, Tripp and Cushing, who oversee sales and marketing respectively. David Milner has been the head winemaker since 2017 after previously working at Groth and Eisele Vineyard. Donelan himself has worked with the Obsidian Vineyard in Knights Valley since 2001 and was able to purchase the site in 2015. Sadly, in 2017, the vineyard fell victim to that year’s fires, but they have since put a new emphasis on replanting with greater vine density. The style of the estate certainly does not shy away from ripeness, although they are wines with finesse and elegance. I am especially a fan of the wines they’re producing in the cooler Bennett Valley. The wines for this report were tasted at their Santa Rosa winery in May.