2007 Estate Cabernet Sauvignon

(14.8% alcohol): Deep, bright ruby. Briary blackberry and boysenberry scents are accented by violet, bitter chocolate and a sexy suggestion of white fruits. Densely packed, sweet and thick but not roasted or over the top. The wine's dark fruit flavors are nicely enlivened by a hint of minerality and a touch of herbacity. This distinctly thick mountain style of Cabernet finishes with huge, ripe, mouthcoating tannins. I'd give this big boy a couple more years in the cellar to lose more of its baby fat.

(the first release for this estate wine, from vines that date back to 1983) Bright medium ruby. Crushed blackberry, licorice and a whiff of blond tobacco on the youthfully medicinal nose. Densely packed and powerful, with concentrated flavors of crushed black fruits, bitter chocolate and cedar. Finishes with strong but smooth tannins that call for at least a five-year moratorium. Estate manager Wesley Steffens noted that this fruit was picked in multiple passes until November 5.

(made from the best estate fruit) Bright ruby-red. Superripe, liqueur-like aromas of plum, blueberry, licorice, black olive and fresh herbs. Sweet, chewy and fruit-driven, with powerful black fruit flavors complemented by cedar and licorice. The serious, building tannins come off as a bit granular today, but I suspect they will meld with the wine's dense fruit by the time the wine is released in late 2010. Incidentally, this was the wine presented to me last year as "7", before the decision was made to offer a flagship wine from all estate vines and a second wine from younger vines and declassified lots.