2006 Arietta Cabernet Sauvignon
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Tasting notes
The 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon comes across as a bit mature in its aromatics, but it is much fresher and more explosive on the palate, where it has tremendous depth and pure power. Even so, the 2006 lacks the balance of the best vintages. The wine's integrity will only deteriorate with time, so any remaining bottles need to be finished. Given the performance of the surrounding vintages, all more or less from the same era in Arietta's history, I suspect a less than perfect bottle. But if that is not the case, the 2006 was likely overoaked, as the wine is clearly oxidized.
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Robert Parker
Stephen Tanzer, Vinous
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(from David Abreu's Howell Mountain vineyard and Meteor Vineyard in Napa) Deep medium ruby. Very dark, perfumed aromas of crushed cassis, blueberry, mocha and menthol. Dense, sappy and spicy, with terrific energy to the flavors of dark berry liqueur, game, licorice and menthol; I picked up a note of Cointreau. This superconcentrated wine boasts a generous texture but also has superb supporting structure and energy to ensure a long evolution in bottle. Finishes with big, broad tannins and terrific length.
I was less impressed with the 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon, which I enjoyed more from barrel. Like a small percentage of this vintage’s top Cabernets, it has closed down, and the tannins seem more sharp and edgy than they were last year. A deep ruby/purple color is accompanied by scents of charcoal, smoked herbs, damp earth, and black currants. The aromatics, attack, and mid-palate are all impressive, but then the wine’s structural tannins take over, and the finish is lean and austere. I think it will improve with age, so patience may be rewarded. Anticipated maturity: 2012-2020. Some of California’s more innovative wines emerge from proprietor Fritz Hatton, the well-known auctioneer who is also a classical pianist. Hatton has been expanding his portfolio with each new vintage, and it appears his blended cuvees turn out more interesting than the varietal wines. Usually a blend of 55-60% Cabernet Franc and the rest Merlot is the proprietary red wine from the H Block of the Hudson Vineyard. The most expensive offering in the portfolio, it is very Cheval Blanc-like. Tel. (707) 963-5918; Fax (707) 963-5919
(includes 4% petit verdot; a blend of fruit from Thorvilos vineyard on the lower slopes of Howell Mountain and the Meteor Vineyard in Coombsville) Deep blue-tinged ruby. High-pitched aromas of cassis, blackberry, violet, menthol and mint. At once juicy and smooth, with intense black fruit flavors supported by a firm structural underpinning. Finishes long, fresh and youthfully medicinal, with fine tannins arriving late and coating the teeth. Elegant and strong cabernet.