2009 Reserve Claret

The Merlot-based 2009 Claret Reserve is gorgeous. Juicy dark cherries, tobacco, smoke and cloves jump out of the glass. The Merlot gives the wine much of its suppleness, while the Cabernet adds the structure and pure mountain tannin. Even with all of its richness, the 2009 remains light on its feet for such a big wine. The 2009 boasts striking balance and tons of harmony. The blend is two-thirds Merlot and one-third Cabernet Sauvignon. Naturally, the Claret doesn't have the personality of the estate's variety wines, but it is compelling just the same. Anticipated maturity: 2017-2029. These current releases from Pride are impressive for their consistency across the board. Pride does so many things well these days. Most of the reds I tasted were 2009s, a vintage Steve Pride and winemaker Sally Johnson describe as cooler than average, but warmer than either 2010 or 2011. Most of the fruit was brought in between the end of October and early November, quite late for the year, but a great example of how fruit matures on this property, which straddles Napa and Sonoma in the heart of Spring Mountain. Tel. (707) 963-4949

(a 63/37 blend of merlot and cabernet sauvignon): Bright ruby-red. Inviting aromas of plum, mocha and lead pencil. Lush, sweet, ripe berry flavors display good verve and definition. At once serious and juicy wine, finishing with plush, building tannins and outstanding length. Terrific mountain intensity here.