2010 Mon Chevalier Cabernet Sauvignon

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Mon Chevalier bursts from the glass with smoke, scorched earth, tobacco, incense and dark plums. There is plenty of Knights Valley character in the glass, but at the same time the fruit is so pure and refined as to make the tannins much more polished than is often the case. The Mon Chevalier is another deep wine endowed with serious depth and power.

The 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon Mon Chevalier bursts from the glass with smoke, scorched earth, tobacco, incense and dark plums. There is plenty of Knights Valley character in the glass, but at the same time the fruit is so pure and refined as to make the tannins much more polished than is often the case. The Mon Chevalier is another deep wine endowed with serious depth and power. Anticipated maturity: 2020-2030. Luc and Jodie Morlet’s 2010s are off the charts. The 2010s have huge structure, but the fruit is so ripe and voluptuous in these wines that the perception of tannin is often imperceptible. The 2009s, on the other hand, are made from grapes that weren’t as physiologically ripe, so the tannins remain firm and in need of time in bottle to soften. As good as the Morlet range is, the most exciting wine appears to be the Morlet Estate, from a vineyard in St. Helena the Morlets purchased a few years ago. Tel. (707) 967-8690; www.morletwines.com

(the first vintage in which this wine includes some fruit from the Morlets' own vineyard located in the western foothills of Knights Valley, across from Peter Michael): Saturated ruby. Blackberry, licorice, bitter chocolate and a hint of game on the nose. Large-scaled, plush and deep, with mouth-saturating flavors of blackberry and violet. This huge, broad, tactile wine finishes with outstanding toothcoating persistence and a restrained sweetness.