2022 Bearwallow Vineyard Pinot Noir

The vineyard for the 2022 Pinot Noir Bearwallow Vineyard is planted to Rhys Selection Massale clones and sees no new oak during aging. Creamy in texture, with Anderson Valley's signature pennyroyal and crisp red berry fruit, it is also salty and saline, showing its closeness to the Pacific Ocean from the appellation's Deep End. Medium-bodied richness is met by savory forest notes and hints of black tea and cardamom, with dried herb and cinnamon stick playing along the palate, too. The texture is minerally and even a touch gravelly, with impressive structure to age another 10-12 years. Rhys has two estates in California, one in Anderson Valley called Bearwallow and an estate winery and six estate vineyards in the Santa Cruz Mountains. Its Santa Cruz winery, where organic and dry farming are typical, is set across the fault line from Ridge Monte Bello and Mount Eden. The first commercial release was 2004. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Syrah and sparkling wines are all made by winemaker Jeff Brinkman and sold direct, with these ocean-influenced wines considered among the finest in the state.

The 2022 Pinot Noir Bearwallow Vineyard opens with an integrated, luscious yet focused nose, with a lovely floral lift and red-fruited energy. The palate is supple and slightly reserved before unfolding with aeration, after which it retains an elegant, reserved nature. It concludes with fine, silty tannins that rapidly gain dimension with air. While not inaccessible now, I suspect this is still coming into itself and will benefit from a year or two in bottle.